Saturday, July 30, 2011

Harnessing Peruvian Pride



Peru is a country with an enormous wealth of resources and Peruvians are well-aware of the universal appeal of their land. I think one of Peru’s most substantial opportunities for advancment is the sense of pride among its citizens. You can ask any Peruvian and they will undoubtedly agree that Peru has the best gastronomy, the most inspiring landscapes, the richest history, and the most appealing tourism destinations in the world. Any Peruvian will convince you that cuy and ceviche are the most delicious foods in the world, small school children will happily inform you of the mountain, coast, and jungle destinations in their country and ancianos will brag about the beautiful sites and distinct culture of their communities.





This pride is something that should be harnessed and utilized to support the development and advancement of Peru. This orgullo Peruano is something that could not be otherwise fabricated or externally manufactured, but rather an intrinsic strength that unifies a large and diverse country. Few Peruvians in our small towns have traveled outside of their own regions, but they’re able to share facts and details about the entire country as if they’d seen it all with their own eyes. Prior to visiting Machu Picchu I spoke with many Peruvians in my community and they described in immense detail the diameter of the rocks forming the ruins, the way the sun hits the mountains and clears the morning fog over the town, or how the strength of the Incas is evident in the impressive architecture. Their descriptions and obvious love and pride for their country is enough to make any tourist jump on a plane, but when asked if they’d personally visited this maravilla del mundo, they most often laugh and say of course not.





This Peruvian pride has emerged in many of my work interactions since arriving in Poroto, and is often most evident among youth. When I arrived to my site a year ago, teenagers were the first to offer a tour of their town, proudly highlighting the delicious fruit, green fields, impressive landscapes, and year-round sun. Their love for Poroto was not forced or artificial, but rather a genuine sense of pride in their hometown. As I explored my new home during the first few months, everyone’s favorite questions was, Estas acostumbrando? (Are you adjusting/getting used to life here/ feel at home?). When I responded that yes, in fact I felt quite comfortable and happy here, they always gave me a satisfied, knowing smile, and responded, “Of course- we do have a fabulous climate.”





As I’ve spent my first year here I’ve had countless candid conversations with people of all ages, backgrounds, and experiences. Regardless of education, opportunities, or resources, one thing ties these people together: pride. Although the Peruvians I’ve talked to can identify countless problems, deficiencies, or opportunities for improvement in their communities and country, they almost always finish their dialogues with a comment on the positive attributes of their homes. These people are not delusional; they’re e certainly not blind to the rampant poverty, lack of educational opportunities, and continued exploitation of their resources. However, a certain sense of pride emanates from their conversations and evaluations of their situations, no matter how bleak they may seem to the outside eye.





What is it that breeds this sense of unified pride in their community? In my conversations and observations, I think one of the most significant contributors is a sense of belonging. In Poroto, for example, people can trace their roots back to the founders of the town. Everyone here is someone’s “tio” or “abuelito” or “hijo” by either blood or familiarity. These ties form strong connections between the community and give people a sense of ownership over their town, its history and its future. Additionally, people are connected to the land and the fruits of their labor are quite tangible. Over 90% of my community works in agriculture, spending long hours on their family chacras, carefully tending the crops on which their livelihood depends. The connection between their work and their sustenance is clearly defined, which seems to contributes to the pride in their local environment.





Although Peruvians are proud of their country’s heritage and wealth of resources, their pride doesn’t always translate into action, conservation, or advancement. The vast majority of resources here are exported in the simplest form for extremely low prices to external country markets. These resources are then manufactured to finished products and sold at a substantially higher value, boasting huge economic advantages for the countries importing raw Peruvian goods but very little for the country itself. Often Peru will then import these finished products, spending a great deal of money on products that originated within their own country. Innovation and creativity are traits not inherently enforced in the educational system in Peru, and this deficiency remains evident in the Peruvian economic market. Although people are proud of their country and work hard to produce its resources, very seldom are final goods prepared within the country, depriving Peru of enormous potential economic growth. Instead, foreign markets exploit the natural resources of Peru, provide packaging, marketing, and other finishing touches, and sell these products at huge profit margins.





The question remains; how can this collective pride be harnessed to contribute to the advancement of both the local community and Peru as a nation? I think the answer lies in innovation. Youth of Peru love their country and have strong ties to their local communities, so this enthusiasm and sense of belonging should be utilized to encourage the creative use of their native resources and local products. Infusing the school system with a more interactive, entrepreneurial way of teaching would help students seek creative solutions to existing problems; whether that be how to successfully market a new pineapple product or decrease teen pregnancy rates. The sense of unity among Peruvians should be strengthened to improve coordination between local and national authorities to grant greater autonomy over local decisions and products through decentralization of the national government. If citizens are given ownership over their resources, decisions, education, and future, they are much more likely to take an active interest in the future of their towns. Engaging youth in meaningful opportunities to express their creativity and showcase their talents will improve their self-esteem and open doors for educational and vocational advancement in the future. Instilling a sense of value is integral in the advancement of Peru; value in the local environment and resources, value in the local authorities and governing bodies, and most importantly value in oneself. If this sense of Peruvian pride is harnessed to breed creativity, unity, and innovation among Peruvian youth, I believe the future will be bright.


Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Gringos Invade La Libertad- Field Based Training for Peru 17

A few weeks ago the newest group of Peace Corps Peru volunteers arrived in country and have been completing their training in Lima. These volunteers are 17ers, which indicates they are the 17th Peace Corps group to arrive in Peru since the program was reopened in 2002. (My group is Peru 15). All even number groups work in youth development and small business, so it’s crazy to see them following the same pattern of training and experiences that we completed exactly one year ago. As “veteran” volunteers, Ian and I were selected to plan a week long field based training trip for 12 new trainees. Field based training is undoubtedly the best part of the training experience; it’s the first time you escape from the Lima bubble and see how volunteers really live and work. It’s an opportunity to gain firsthand experience working with Peruvian youth, meet community members, and catch a glimpse of what life might have in store for the next two years.

Planning a 7 day schedule for 15 people was no simple task, and both Ian and I took our responsibility seriously, filling every free moment with an activity or experience. Whether the new volunteers love us or hate us for keeping them so busy is still up for debate, but I’d like to think that after a week in La Libertad they now have a much better idea of what life in Peace Corps entails.

The trainees arrived on Sunday, fresh off their first experience on an overnight bus from Lima. Looking lively, we introduced ourselves, braved the frantic line of screaming taxistas, and introduced them to our usual hostel in Trujillo. After a brief period of recuperation after the chaos that is night buses, we shuffled to breakfast and began our week. We took it easy the first day, exploring the necessities of Trujillo and what a volunteer might need when they take a trip to their capital city (Good food, hot showers, etc.)


On Monday we departed bright and early for Puerto Malabrigo, probably the most rustic Peace Corps site here in Peru, located in a beautiful beach town known worldwide for the largest left wave. This may have been an inaccurate first portrayal of a Peace Corps site, but Erin kept the trainees busy and quickly showed them that she manages to accomplish meaningful work despite the temptations of the beach. We provided fluoride treatments and an oral health workshop for children and parents in the local kindergarten as well as the special education school where Erin works. We enjoyed a beautiful ocean-front lunch of fresh fish and then organized a beach cleanup with a local youth group. During Erin and Keith’s time in Puerto Malabrigo they’ve worked extensively at a surf school. Tough life, right? The trainees were fortunate enough to don their own wet suits and help the little surfistas with their lessons. Quite a unique and successful day, I’d say. I certainly can’t imagine anyone else went surfing on their Peace Corps field based training.

The following day we visited Bello Horizante where the trainees embraced their first opportunity to brave a classroom all to themselves. They taught English to the primaria students, and as I walked around observing I was happy to see the trainees getting down and dirty with the kids; hand motions, animal noises, silly games… nothing was off limits. Following the English classes the trainees observed Ian and I give a charla about effective communication with your parents. This isn’t the easiest topic to discuss with Peruvian teenagers, but we managed to elicit some participation and even hearty laughter after Ian and I posed as their “padres gringos” in a sociodrama. The afternoon consisted of futbol Americana, Frisbee, and other games with the kids at a local orphanage where Ian works.

La Libertad is one of the only departments fortunate enough to house both coastal and sierra sites (beaches and mountains, less than 2 hours away!). Taking advantage of this geographic gift, we headed to Otuzco, Brian’s beautiful mountain site to engage in some environmental educational sessions with local youth. If you haven’t seen a tippy-tap, you should ask one of the new 17ers how to prepare this amazing hand-washing gadget. They’re all pros at turning a discarded water bottle into a germ-killing, diarrhea-preventing tool, useful for all those bathrooms and kitchens without running water. After a few foggy days in Trujillo, I think everyone was particularly grateful for the strong sierra sun that accompanied us on our hike this afternoon. In Otuzco, trainees were also exposed to the wonders of Peruvian street food- salchipollo, papas rellenas, tamales, anticuchos, you name it… we tried it.




Following our Sierran excursion we descended to Poroto and jumped right into the school day, delivering sessions on vocational orientation and recycling (two of the programs I’m working on right now.) The kids at my school were beyond excited to have a huge group of my gringo friends come and work with them, and immediately attached themselves to their sides. It can be difficult to get up in front of a room of teenagers and facilitate a successful class, but the trainees did a great job and continued improving as the week progressed. After working with the secondary students in Poroto we headed to Mochal, a caserio located just outside of Poroto. I wanted the trainees to see what it’s like to work in both a large central school and a tiny caserio school. When we arrived to Mochal we were greeted by the principal and all the students in formation with a microphone announcing our arrival. There are less than 50 students total at this school, from kindergarten to 6th grade, but our welcome was quite the event. Peruvians have a tendency to give long-winded, overly formal introductions and palabras commemorating an event, and this was certainly no exception. Don Erico, the principal, announced the school’s appreciation for the arrival of the esteemed colleagues of our beloved Senorita Kelsi from the respected organization Cuerpo de Paz and after the national anthem and a few more introductions we began. The trainees facilitated games and dinamicas with the kids, who were also thrilled to have visitors. Before we left we elected one of the trainees to give the palabras de agradecimento or closing words of thanks. He took the microphone with confidence and gave an impressive speech, my personal favorite part was, “Gracias por tu feliz” or “Thank you for your happy.”


We headed back to Poroto and after lunch we had a question and answer session with my health post who helped the trainees understand some of the most prevalent health issues in Peru, adolescent health risks, and how Peace Corps volunteers can partner with their local health post to address these issues. Afterwards the trainees met with my group of youth health promoters to prepare interactive sessions about hygiene, nutrition, values, and/or dental health for primary school classes the next day. My health promoters are great, and they were excited to have the opportunity to work with the trainees. The groups were formed of 2 teen health promoters and 2 trainees, and as I walked around and talked with each group it was exciting to see them sharing ideas, knowledge, and planning their activities.

. After the sessions were prepared and we ended the meeting the kids invited us to play soccer, so we walked through town to the soccer field. It was a beautiful day, and a really fun opportunity for the kids to get to know lots about other Americans and the trainees to interact with youth on more casual level, which I personally think is the most meaningful kind of interactions I have here.



On Friday the groups of my health promoters and trainees delivered the health education sessions for the primary kids. The groups meshed incredibly well, and I was especially proud of my health promoters who were able to demonstrate their knowledge and took ownership over their presentations. Before we left email addresses were exchanged, photos were taken, and we were given enormous bags of sugar cane, pineapples, oranges, avocados, and other treats from kids of Poroto.



Our week of field based training ended on Saturday with an environmental leadership activity at Ian’s site in Bello Horizante. Working with some kids we painted garbage cans and placed them in the community and prepared a mural to encourage the protection of the environment. After a very busy week we had the afternoon free to enjoy Trujillo. When we got back to the hostel, some of the trainees called Ian and me down for a “meeting.” Before we knew it we were wrapped up in blindfolds and being thrown into taxis. Laughing, they told us that we were being kidnapped. It really was quite an experience being in a taxi blindfolded- neither of us had any indication as to where we may be going. We got out of the taxi about 10 or 15 minutes later and were led through a crowded area. Ian finally realized we were at the mall in Trujillo and got really embarrassed. I on the other hand thought it was hilarious and happily played along, waving my hands around and causing a scene. I’m sure the Peruvians thought we were crazy, but it was quite entertaining. Finally we were sat down and the blindfolds removed and were surrounded by all the trainees who thanked us for planning the training week. We were both treated to delicious Starbucks drinks and really thoughtful handmade certificates. Overall I think the week was successful- the trainees had the opportunity to work with youth of all ages, from various communities, in lots of different focal areas. The week was certainly a whirlwind, but I think they left La Libertad with a more comprehensive understanding of what life as a Peace Corps volunteers may look like.


Saturday, July 16, 2011

Peace Corps Volunteer or Party Planner?

I’ve recently participated in quite a spectrum of events here in Poroto. If I can’t think of a future profession, I think I may have sufficient experience to take up party planning. As Peace Corps volunteers we’re completely integrated into the community, and become an integral part in community events and celebrations. I’ll fill you in on my most recent celebrations here in Poroto… a wedding, quincinera, and first communion.

A Very Peruvian Wedding… I’ve been to several weddings within the last month or so, which are always a fun occasion. I’m typically invited to be on the decorating committee, so I arrive early or the day before and adorn the locale with flowers, balloons, and sparkly decorations. After 2 years here I’m beginning to think my own wedding is going to be filled with flower balloon formations and glittery letters announcing “Kelsi and Groom” in a giant heart. I’ll also need an enormous cupcake-style wedding dress with lots of sparkles and lace. The obvious choice for our wedding dinner will also be a huge plate of rice, potatoes, and goat on a Styrofoam plate served with a spork. At weddings, guests are seated in a large circle on plastic chairs surrounding the dance floor and hand-delivered an enormous plate of food. 99% of the time it is rice, potatoes, and goat. Now, eating such a large plate of food off your lap in formal attire is hard enough, but eating a tough piece of goat with a spork is just impossible. After everyone’s finished with their meal the dancing begins and doesn’t end until the dozens of “cajas” of beer are finished and most people seem to have trouble standing.

My Super Sweet Quincinera….I was sitting in my house the other day when I heard a knock on the door and someone yelling my name. I open the door and it’s Saydi, one of the girls who lives nearby. She explained that tomorrow she is celebrating her Quincinera, a very important 15th birthday celebration for girls here in Peru. She shyly asked if I would be able to be the “MC” for her birthday party. This may not seem like an important role, but quincineras are extremely important events, and the MC is responsible for guiding the activities and introducing each formal stage of the party. I agreed and spent the evening with Saydi planning out the script for the following day. I arrived early and helped decorate with pink and white balloons, glittery letters, and ribbon before the guests arrived. Holding true to my responsibilities, I happily announced the entrance of the family, friends, and the quincinera herself for this special day. Peruvian festivities follow a formal sequence, so as I was saying something along the lines of “A very good afternoon to all, esteemed parents, godparents, family and friends of our beloved quincinera, Saydi, who have joined us here on this very important day to celebrate a monumental occasion…” into a booming microphone. Don’t forget la “hora loca” which features a clown on stilts, whistles, disco-lights, balloons, and loud cumbia music. Gotta love Peruvian parties…

Fairy Godmother… Madrinas and Padrinos (godparents) are an integral part of Peruvian society. Each child has padrinos who are responsible not only for serving as a second parent, but also funding many of the aforementioned monumental occasions in one’s life (weddings, quincineras, promociones, etc.). Beyond this main set of padrinos, Peruvians also use madrinas and padrinos for other occasions. Early in Peace Corps training we were warned against agreeing to be named madrinas or padrinos for Peruvian children because the expectation for financial support can be a burden. I’ve jokingly been asked to serve as madrina for countless things in Poroto, but I typically shrug it off with a laugh. However, the other week Paola and her mom approached me and asked me to be the madrina for her 1st communion. Although my initial instinct was to decline, I know this family well and enjoy spending time with them. After clarifying there would be no gifts or money necessary, I agreed to accompany Paola for her 1st communion festivities. We woke up early and I left with her whole family to a church in Trujillo. Although Paola is typically pretty shy, she was evidently excited about having me join her for this special occasion. The service was nice, and we enjoyed a delicious lunch and even snapped some pictures with the “Padre.” Now that I’m a “godmother” I’m still waiting for my magical powers, Cinderella style. I’ll keep you posted on that.




Wednesday, July 6, 2011

A Peruvian 4th of July, Round 2


Its hard to believe I just celebrated my 2nd Fourth of July here in Peru. Last year’s celebration of dancing and an American potluck spread in Chaclacayo seems recent and the laughter and memories from that night remain fresh in my head. I spent this Fourth of July in Pacasmayo, a beach town in the northern region of my department. Several years ago a Peace Corps volunteer began the international marathon of Pacasmayo with his local community members. The race has grown and Jim, the new Peace Corps volunteer living near Pacasmayo, has adopted the race and helped continue its success.

I’ve run lots of road races, some more successful than others, but I was truly impressed by the organization of this event. The details were impeccable, everything was planned: pre-race events, music, water stops, jersey t-shirts, prizes, etc. The race was divided into 5K, 10K, ½ marathon, and full marathon, with hundreds of participants running these races. The race began along the boardwalk and continued along the beach, providing a pretty (yet windy) course. Dozens of Peace Corps volunteers from both Peru and Ecuador participated in the races, along with runners from many countries. The water along the way was distributed in a truly Peruvian fashion: tied baggies (think goldfish-from-a-carnival-type bags filled with water). Here in Peru vendors distribute soda, juice, and other beverages in little baggies, so this was quite an ingenious means of handing out water. Unlike the little cups used in traditional races, these baggies could be held easily without spilling. I was impressed; just bite a little hole in the corner and instant hydration! At the finish of the race all participants were given medals made out of local stones and carved by artisans from Pacasmayo.

The weather was beautiful and the post-race celebrations were particularly enjoyable in the sunshine along the beach. True to our American roots we prepared a big barbeque in the evening, complete with guacamole, hot dogs and hamburgers, and other American goodies. The day was perfect- early morning exercise, delicious food, sunshine, and great company. Despite being far from America, spending the day with Peace Corps friends at the beach made me feel truly patriotic.