Preparing for the last combi ride

I vividly remember the emotional rush that accompanied during my very first combi ride to Poroto.  I was crammed amongst a jumble of people, excited and slightly overwhelmed at the prospect of seeing my new home for the first time.  I remember all my senses were heightened as I took in the sites of the passing pineapple fields, smelled burning sugar cane lingering in the warm air, heard cobradors shout in Spanish jabber, and felt the bumps and curves of the carretera.  Everything was new and revealing itself to me for the first time; my anxious anticipation was palpable as I anticipated the site where I’d be living for the next two years.  Now, after countless trips on that same combi, I’m called by name and greeted with smiles by fellow Porotinas as I climb aboard.  The squawking chickens, screaming children, and huge bushels of fruit that inevitably accompany me have become commonplace fellow passengers.  My two years have passed and I’ll soon be embarking on my dreaded last combi ride out of Poroto. 

As I rode that first combi with a nervous smile plastered on my face, I could’ve never anticipated the experiences that were waiting; shared laughs, frustrating challenges, and countless new opportunities.  Somehow this little town, nestled in the very base of the Andes Mountains, surrounded by vibrant green pineapple fields has stolen my heart and truly become home.  It’s been an experience far different from anything else in my life, and something that I know will affect everything that’s yet to come.  I truly thought joining Peace Corps meant leaving my life behind and starting something new.  While Peace Corps was absolutely a distinct departure from my previous lifestyle, it has in no way been a different life.  It’s amazing how we all have the ability to adapt to new situations and integrate into foreign environments.  Practices that initially seemed bizarre, illogical, or different have become “normal” and my conception of reality has surely been altered as I became comfortable with my new lifestyle. 

I’ve found that my life hasn’t been put on hold these past two years; in fact, quite the opposite has been true.  My life has continued and been enriched by a distinct set of challenges, relationships, and opportunities for growth.  Never before had I encountered moments where I felt so lonely, cynical, and frustrated, but simultaneously loved, encouraged, and inspired.  I had experiences and interactions that truly tested long-standing personal beliefs and conceptions of the way the world works and others that re-affirmed them in personal and meaningful ways.  I realized that as much as I missed my “real” friends and family, I was also capable of forming an entirely new system of support in my community and amongst fellow Peace Corps volunteers. 

Much like two years ago, I am once again faced with a myriad of emotions as I’m about to jump on this combi for the last time.  The “unknown” in my life is no longer the foreign, as it was two years ago.  Ironically enough, it’s now the “familiar” that’s become unknown.  I’ve become accustomed to 4:30am braying donkeys as my alarm clock, lazy Sundays picking pineapple, extended  lunches laughing with  my host family, children greeting my entrance with screams of “Senorita Kelsi!,” stray dogs chasing me on my afternoon runs, and long Spanish conversations with local senoras about town gossip.   I’ve embraced less than hygienic habits and integrated bizarre Peruvian jerga into my vocabulary.  Will I be ready to face the world of 9-5 jobs, punctuality, and materialism?  I have to remind myself that America also means my family and friends, dinner parties, real weekends, hot showers, the beginning of a career, and food I can choose myself.  Twenty-seven months outside the US has made me unsure of what’s waiting for me and what new adventures lies ahead.  My own beliefs and personality have undoubtedly been impacted by my time here in Peace Corps, but I have faith I’ll jump back into American life carrying with me the very best of Peruvian culture; hospitality, warmth, and taking the time to enjoy life and relationships.  I’ve said before; I’m ready to go, but I don’t want to leave.  Leaving my host family and community and boarding that combi will undoubtedly be one of the hardest things I’ve ever done.  As I watch the town of Poroto fade away into the green fields, my emotions will once again be heightened and my future unknown, but I now carry with me experiences that I’ll never forget and confidence gained through the struggles and successes of the last two years. 

As I began packing, I found a letter I wrote to myself almost exactly a year ago  with instructions to open during my last week at site… here’s an excerpt-

“This may not have been the easiest thing in the world, but now that it’s over I hope you continue to feel 100% certain that it was 2 years incredibly well spent.  As you continue with your life, remember the simple pleasures, the beauty of relationships, and the small things around you.  Maintain passion, enthusiasm, positivity.  Don’t ever lose faith; in yourself, in God, in others, in your own capacity.  The world awaits.  I know it’ll be hard to leave, but Peru will always be your second home.  Remember what you said when you started this adventure? You wanted a heart and home in this country; I certainly think at this point you do.  So- be fuerte, be ambitious, love life, love others, love yourself.  Embrace your last bit of time in Poroto; keep smiling, eat some pina, laugh with the fam- don’t take things too seriously and think of the many blessings you’ve had over these last years.  Take this experience back home with you and let it mold your future in the best way possible. “

Peace Corps Highlighted in Trujillo Newspaper

The following is an article featured in the main Trujillo newspaper, La Industria.  It highlights the work of Peace Corps in the region, focusing on our recent youth camps. I translated most of the article below.

Hundreds of Youth Share a Unique Experience

Peace Corps: More than a Vocation

Organization Founded by John F Kennedy Works in 8 Provinces of La Libertad

“Don’t wait for change, be the change.” Peace Corps promotes this motto to hundreds of youth in 13 regions of Peru, one of which is La Libertad, where 25 volunteers can be found working in 8 provinces: Otuzco, Sanchez Carrion, Santiago de Chuco, VIru, Gran Chimu, Ascope, Pacasmayo, and our own city.

The story began to write itself 51 years ago when the president John F Kennedy founded Peace Corps, a development agency supported by the United States, which provides American professionals who work on social development projects in communities who solicit their support.  The members of this organization are currently working in 79 different countries.

Within Peru there is an initiative with Peace Corps volunteers working in environmental management, water and sanitation, youth development, small business development, and community health.

The regional coordinator of Peace Corps, Sandra Rivasplata, explained that there have been many years of intense work in the design and implementation of projects based on the reality of each community with a strong emphasis on community inclusion.  “Our first efforts were focused on combating chronic child malnutrition, which led us to become authorities on the theme and allowed us to expand our lines of action.”

Peace Corps works prioritizing interventions benefitting children, women and small businesses, focusing on workshops and educational sessions.  Annually, the volunteers facilitate two camps with student leaders from the region, one named ALMA (Leadership Activities for Young Women) and VALOR (Leadership Activities for Young Men).

In these camps the youth spend four days learning about diverse topics including; leadership, self esteem, youth entrepreneurship, goal setting and life planning, vocational orientation, and health (sexual/reproductive health, teen pregnancy prevention, etc.) sharing experiences with other youth from the coast and mountains from the region, converting the camps into a great space of sharing and learning amongst the youth.

This year the first camp was held with young women with the principal focus of vocational orientation, including a vocational tour where youth visited four different institutes and universities and listened to presentations about scholarship opportunities, motivating them to continue their studies for a better future for themselves and their families.

The Facts-

There are 8655 Peace Corps volunteers in the world

240 Peace Corps volunteers serve in Peru

33 Volunteers are in the La Libertad Region

Escuela de Padres

For the last two years I’ve been working extensively with the youth of Poroto on everything from health promotion to environmental education, cultivating meaningful relationships and trust between myself and the adolescents of Poroto.  However, the amount of time students spend in school or personally with me is minimal.  Our root values and beliefs stem from our families and homes.  Despite behavior-change attempts or educational programs, if we don’t reach out to families and parents we’ll be fighting a losing battle against promoting positive lifestyle habits and practices.  

The thought of working with parents seemed overwhelming at first; not only am I 24 years old with no children of my own, but I also come from a very different culture, especially when considering familial trends and parenting styles.  What did I have to offer to these parents? Furthermore, even if I did have valuable information to share, who would listen?  I had planned on doing an Escuela de Padres series in my local school since arriving, but it took several personal encounters to give me real motivation to organize the project.

 A little over a year ago, I was working in the health post when one of my favorite teenage boys comes in.  He was crying and inconsolable, which was extremely atypical from his usual cheery demeanor.  I spoke to him in private with the nurse and after calming down he confessed he had misplaced his phone and his mom was going to hit him again tonight if he couldn’t find it.  He expressed this happens on a regular basis and he was terrified of going home.  On the outside, this boy seems well-adjusted, happy, at the top of his class; someone who I expect to overcome many of the obstacles in his life.  However, if he’s battling continual abuse at home, what long-term effect will that have on his self-esteem, confidence, and abilities? This is just one small example, but it helped me realize that no amount of sessions or education with youth can change the way parents communicate with their children.  I couldn’t leave Poroto without trying to engage actively with parents.

After this interaction and several similar encounters, I decided to coordinate with my local school and health post to organize comprehensive parent-education workshops for parents of both elementary and high school. Peruvian schools are technically mandated to have Parent Education sessions, but like dozens of other programs, they conveniently ignored this requirement.  I started by meeting with all the teachers and principal of the school to determine relevant issues and concerns that affect parents and their relationships with their children in Poroto.  After extensive brainstorming and planning we launched our program. Working with parents and captivating their attention isn’t easy, and I’ve heard a long list of failures with parent-related activities, so I was determined to ensure parents’ attendance and participation.  I solicited the support of teachers, the principal, and the health post to encourage parents to take advantage of these workshops, and we began about this time last year. 

Working with the nurse and psychologist from my health post we’ve been able to facilitate discussions on everything from adequate disciplinary practices, talking to your children about the changes of puberty/adolescence, preventing teen pregnancy, alcoholism, promoting nutrition, and dealing with domestic abuse.   The three of us have worked really well together, complementing each other’s knowledge and skill-set.  Johan’s professional knowledge of psychology and familial relationships gives credibility to our programs while my enthusiasm and non-formal education activities help parents feel comfortable to share and express their concerns.  I also know most of their children by name, so they’re more open to comment on personal anecdotes.  I’ve found myself smack in the middle of dozens of bizarre conversations with parents, tackling taboo topics and laughing through uncomfortable situations.  Never in my life did I think I’d be in a room full of Peruvian parents facilitating a session about talking to your kids about sex, but I’ve put aside my verguenza and jumped right in.  The Escuela de Padres program has not only allowed parents to learn new parenting techniques and diffuse tough familial situations, but also provided an outlet to share experiences and advice.  This program has also served to bridge the gap between the health post, school, and families, which I hope will make families feel more comfortable to seek out professional help and assistance when necessary.

Our attendance has been consistent and participation is active after a bit of encouragement.  The opportunity to work one-on-one with over 100 parents from my town has provided insight into a whole new realm of the community and its dynamics.  I may not have children of my own, but somehow these Peruvian parents have come to trust me and together we’ve shared many memorable moments. 

Facing the person in the mirror

This is exactly what I looked like when I left America, si o no?

Three months left. What an adventure these past two years has been; more highs than lows, but lots of new experiences and more than enough time spent in my own company.  When I look in the mirror, two years after setting foot in this country, I gaze back at myself and appear to be pretty much the same.  I’m a little dirtier, maybe carrying a nice little recuerdo of the rice and potatoes so generously offered in abundance.  I might have a few more wrinkles from the strong Peruvian sun and laugh lines formed from the shared experiences and ridiculous cultural exchanges, but when it comes down to it, I’m still me; still Kelsi.  After two years in Peace Corps I was subconsciously expecting a grand transformation of sorts; some revelation about my purpose in life or the hidden way the world works. 

Despite incredible new experiences, defeating challenges, emotional blows, exhilarating successes, and true fulfillment, I feel like the same person.  However, when I look in the mirror there is something different, something that’s developed over the last two years that I can’t quite put my finger on. After pondering what that that extra little something might be, I think I finally identified it: comfort.  I have spent the last two years learning to rely on myself and serving as my own personal entertainment.  Out of necessity I’ve become comfortable with myself; my quirks, my strengths, my shortcomings, and my convictions. 

Regardless of a wonderful host family and a supportive community, life in Peace Corps can be lonely and I’ve learned to be able to spend time with myself.  Coming to Peace Corps fresh out of college was a dramatic transition. I spent four years living with my best friends in a beautiful college town, where I was constantly surrounded by others.  Everything I did was accompanied by other people and I thrived on the social interactions, sharing every detail of my life with those around me.  I didn’t have any need to entertain myself or contemplate on any grand level who I was or what I stood for. I’ve always been a strong person and known what I thought and believed.   However, I did not know how to “just be” and embrace time alone.

 

Many long nights here in Poroto have taught me the pleasure of my own company and I’ve realized that I can only make others happy if I’m happy first with myself. The time and leisure of thought and reflection afforded to me during Peace Corps has been both a blessing and a curse.  In an atmosphere conducive to emotional instability, it can be torture to be trapped in my own head.  Simultaneously, it is through those quiet times of reflection, doubt, and questioning that I’ve gained self-confidence and become truly comfortable with myself.  I may not know exactly what I want out of life or the path that I’ll take in the future, but I do know myself well enough to be confident in my ability to own my decisions and figure it out.  In America it can be far too easy to hide behind friends, a job, a lifestyle, a boyfriend, or an image, but here you have little else to rely on but yourself.  Stripped of any comfort, support, or familiarity you’re forced to embrace who you are and work with what you’ve got.  Resourcefulness and self-reliance come fast or you’ll drown.  No one is here to hold you accountable or keep you grounded; every day you have to wake up and learn to live with yourself.  I’ve learned to speak my mind, form strong opinions, and truly battle internally over what I believe and what I want out of life.

  I’ve learned to take ownership over my decisions, even if they’re hard, and I’ve come to realize that life cannot be perfectly planned.  Life is messy and emotions are fragile, but strength and confidence are born out of insecurity and struggles.  I still don’t have concrete answers, but I do know myself much better.  Every day circumstances happen that are out of our control; projects fall apart, people disappoint, plans change.   Life happens and we can’t change that, but we can change how we react, how we face obstacles, and how we respond to life’s twists and turns.  So when I look in a mirror I realize that Peace Corps hasn’t turned me into a hippi (fortunately) and I am no closer to understanding the meaning of life (unfortunately), but it has given me the time to get to know myself.  My thoughts, my beliefs, my hopes; the good, the bad, and the messy, and with this knowledge of myself I’ve learned to enjoy my own company. The luxury of alone-time has armed me with a sense of self that will help me navigate the next phase of my life, and with this self-awareness I feel ready to confront the next set of challenges and adventures that life will bring.   

Poder de la Mujer

Here in Peru it seems as though there is a festival or official day of celebration for anything. Everything from the common, like Mother’s Day, to the bizarre (or potentially invented) like Pisco Sour Day. I’ve learned to take advantage of these days to facilitate events or generate awareness about a relevant topic. March 8^th was International Women’s Day, so Lindsey and I decided to plan an educational health fair for women in the district of Poroto. We began coordinating with our counterparts from the health post, soliciting support from the psychologist, nurses, and obstetrician to provide professional advice and interactive sessions. The idea was to present important health information in a fun and participatory way. The idea started small and manageable, but before long it transformed into an expansive event. We incorporated the 20 plus health promoters living throughout the rural sections of the district, my youth health promoters, and another NGO working in health activities. The municipality and police also became involved, creating a community-wide project that required seemingly endless coordination amongst all parties. Serving as the go-between between so many disparate community organizations definitely tested my patience at points, but the event came together well and ended up being a success.

The day began with an opening from the mayor and local authorities, recognizing the importance of women in the community. After concluding the welcome, each authority wrote their personal reflections about women on an enormous paper mural honoring international women’s day. We continued with a cultural show of typical dances performed by community members. From there, groups of women passed through series of stations that focused on different health fields; nutrition, family planning and reproductive health, women’s rights and empowerment, and mental health. Each station included interactive sessions hosted by health professionals and Lindsey and I. We also incorporated a different game at each station to encourage participation, teamwork, and fun. The games included bobbing for apples, three-legged races, pin-the-tail on the donkey, and egg races. To our delight, the women participated with enthusiasm. Full grown women were practically swimming in the bobbing-for-apples bucket and knocking each other over in the three-legged race. My youth health promoters also worked with the kids in the community to do art and play health-related games, allowing their moms to participate fully in the health fair. In addition to playing ridiculous games, women were able to learn how to prepare healthy meals, exercise their rights to education, work, and health, access birth control and family planning, report domestic violence, and more. The entire community participated in this event honoring women and their power. I continue to believe women are the key to development. If a woman is educated and empowered they will make positive, informed decisions regarding their futures and their families. The most responsible, involved, and dedicated youth in my community are girls, and if they are given further opportunities to exercise their leadership and explore their skills, I believe the future of Poroto is in excellent hands.

Acostumbrando...

Acostumbrar. If I were to simplify the entirety of my goals, hopes, and aspirations during my Peace Corps experience into one word, this simple Spanish verb would pretty much sum it up. Despite my attempts to adequately convert this into English, any translation falls short. In my eyes, acostumbrar can mean to become integrated, to get used to, to become comfortable; in essence, to become part of something. So, you may ask, after two years of new experiences, frustrating challenges, and successful projects, why is “acostumbrar-ing” still the focus of my thoughts and actions? Life in Peace Corps depends on becoming accustomed to your surroundings, understanding the dynamics of your community, and embracing a new and very distinct way of life. I strongly believe my personal happiness and sense of fulfillment stems from integrating into a new environment. In all my life I cannot remember a more overwhelming experience than when I first arrived in Poroto. As I climbed off the combi I knew this rural 1200 person Peruvian town would be home for the next two years. I was left to fend for myself: to find work, make relationships, and form a new life for myself. Knowing no one, having little guidance over my work plan, and still stumbling over Spanish, the tiny town somehow felt immense.

I refused to recognize any lingering sense of doubt, and instead decided to embrace this new adventure and jump in head first. Wasting no time, I decided I would dedicate my first months to meeting as many people as possible and gaining as many new experiences as possible. Every day was a new adventure, with new challenges to overcome and different cultural barriers to tackle. I immediately fell in love with my sunshiny new town, accepting its many glaring imperfections along with its endless possibilities. Before long, I was invited to family lunches, danced at town parties, and greeted by name as I walked down the street.

Despite my initial love for Poroto, I certainly wasn’t “acustombrar-ed” to this crazy new life. For months the early morning donkey brays startled me, the enormous portions of rice and potatoes overwhelmed me, glaring poverty disheartened me, and strange Peruvian customs besieged me. However, I slowly found myself taking part in the activities I first found so bizarre. I loved eating a huge bowl of chicken soup with chicken feet for breakfast, I found it normal to sit in the town health post with stray dogs at my side, and started to throw Peruvian slang into my Spanish vocabulary. Every conversation with a Peruvian inevitably began with, “¿estás acostumbrando?” to which I confidently responded, “¡claro que si!”

Now, over a year and a half later, as I come back from the chakra with my host family covered in dirt and carrying large sacks of fruit or enter the school to resounding shouts of “Senorita Kelsi!”, people in my community now comment with a knowing smile, “ya, estás acostumbrada.” My sense of normalcy has shifted entirely, and I’ve come to understand the deeply rooted societal customs of Poroto and Peru in general. I worry that when I go back home my less than socially acceptable Peruvian tendencies will continue, and I’ll end up sucking on chicken bones at the dinner table, bathing only a few times a week, or aggressively waving my hand to get someone’s attention. However, in all seriousness, I have been adopted by my community as a pseudo-Porotina and I consider Poroto my second home. As much as I sometimes like to think I’m Peruvian, I’ve come to realize I will never fully “acostumbrar.” My American roots run deep and I will never understand some intricacies of the Peruvian culture (for example; how an open window or a fan is a sure cause of the flu, but heavy drinking for hours out of a shared cup poses no sanitary concerns). However, the bizarre beliefs or lifestyle choices are far outweighed by the many cultural habits I’ve come to deeply appreciate. Peruvians are warm, generous people; no matter how little they may have, they share it without reservation, keeping me well fed with heaping plates of food and freshly picked fruit. All Peruvian women seem to have the incredible talent of miraculously producing ample food for anyone who may unexpectedly show up at their doorstep or arrive late to a party. I’ve learned to take myself less seriously, and come to realize there is never anything so urgent that I can’t take the time to stop for a quick chat and a good morning smile with the senoras I pass on the street. I’d like to think that in my time here in Poroto my community and I have simultaneously “acostumbrar-ed” to one another; slowly learning more about the other and becoming more comfortable as we share, laugh, and experience life together.

US Ambassador, Rose Likins, Visits Poroto!

US Ambassador to Peru, Rose Likins

Introducing La Embajadora to our host families

Explaining that Peace Corps exemplifies the best of the "American Spirit"

My wonderful youth leaders explaining the youth entrepreneurship and health promoter programs they've participated in with me

Poroto's Mayor welcoming the ambassador to the beautiful district of Poroto

During the celebration of the Peace Corps 50th anniversary, various Peace Corps volunteers were invited to an elegant party and reception at the residence of the US Ambassador in Lima. Donned in our finest attire, we were able to mingle with important Peruvian and American diplomats, embassy workers, and Peace Corps staff. The ambassador’s residence was quite impressive, and the event indicated the importance of the ambassador’s position in strategic Peru/US relations. The formality of the event was quite a distinct departure from our typical lives and work as Peace Corps volunteers, but a nice chance to celebrate the history of the organization.

I was recently contacted by our country director in regards to planning a special trip for the US Ambassador. She wanted to see the work of a Peace Corps volunteer first hand by visiting their site and meeting their community. My site-mate, Lindsey, is working on an extensive healthy lifestyle and “cocinas mejoradas” project and I’ve worked closely with my health post on various successful health promotion and youth focused projects. Although this trip was still only a possibility, we were both simultaneously excited and nervous at the prospect of hosting the ambassador here in our tiny Peace Corps community. We contacted community counterparts and created a tentative schedule, highlighting our projects and involvement in Poroto. After some deliberation, we were selected to host the ambassador and showcase the work of Peace Corps first hand. Wasting no time, we informed our work partners, students involved in our summer education classes, and health promoters that an important visitor from the US would be coming. Many of the participants in our projects live in far away caserios with no phone service or transportation, so informing them of this important meeting was a bit of a task. However, we managed to organize a schedule that highlighted the broad work we’ve been doing and confirm the participation of various community members.

I was recently in Lima for an advisory council meeting with office staff, when we found out the mayor of Trujillo had changed the ambassador’s meeting time only 2 days before the planned event, which required us to reprogram the ambassador’s visit for a day earlier. I rushed home from Lima and both Lindsey and I spent Tuesday running (literally) around the district of Poroto, communicating the changed schedule with the many health promoters living in isolated caserios, preparing presentations with our counterparts, and encouraging the participation of local authorities. Despite our excitement, we were nervous because of the last minute schedule change, and after a full day of planning we could do little more than go to bed and hope for the best.

We woke up early on Wednesday morning and received the full support of our health post staff, who had also arrived early to clean, set up the room, and prepare for the presentation. Before long, a caravan of large SUV security vehicles rolled up to my 1200 person town, creating quite a sensation here in Poroto. Somehow, we managed to have the entire invited audience in attendance and seated in the health post before the arrival of the ambassador and her entourage. The mayor and entire municipality, the health post staff, my youth leaders, health promoters traveling from isolated caserios, participants in our projects, and our host families; everyone was early and eagerly awaiting the arrival of the embajadora from Los Estados Unidos.

The ambassador arrived to the health post and was met by a standing ovation and an enthusiastic audience. We met her at the door, led her to her front-row seat, and began our presentation. In Peru, it is custom to formally address each audience member of importance personally, so my introduction was a very long-winded, “A very good day to our ambassador of the United States and her esteemed colleagues present, mayor of the district of Poroto and municipality staff, our honored doctor Luis Aponte and health post personnel, Peace Corps staff present, district health promoters, and audience in general…” I still can’t get used to these formal introductions, so after making it through that without a hitch I knew we were in for a good day. I was given the opportunity to explain Peace Corps as an organization, its role in Peru, and specifically how I’ve been active as a volunteer in Poroto.

From there, I gave a brief presentation explaining some of our most successful youth development projects here in Poroto, including our youth health promoters and teen pregnancy prevention campaigns, youth entrepreneurship and environmental programs, and parent education workshops. Diana, my loyal community counterpart/health post nurse spoke highly of her work with me and the impact of our programs, even sharing that recent data suggests that the teen pregnancy rate has dropped in the district of Poroto as a result of our work. I also invited two of my youth leaders, Karolain and Tania, to speak about what they’ve learned participating in projects with me. They were well spoken and sincere, and their kind and generous words about me and our projects made me hold back tears.

Lindsey and I continued to share pictures and details about our rural health education series we’ve been working on together in the isolated caserio of Huayabito. This caserio is 3 hours walking distance away, with little access to water, electricity, or other basic needs. We’ve traveled there consistently over the last 6 months, giving interactive nutrition and cooking classes, hygiene and disease prevention, and composting and gardening workshops. We were thrilled and surprised that the health promoter from Huayabito came rushing in during the meeting, having walked the three hours in the heat to join us. This portion of the presentation served as a transition to Lindsey’s exciting new program of healthy living and “cocinas mejoradas” she recently began in the district. Working with the 20 health promoters in various caserios in the district, they will be trained in basic health practices and then construct “cocinas mejoradas” for 70 families. Cocinas mejoradas are improved cooking stoves, which include a chimney and covered flame to drastically reduce smoke contamination and health problems as well as preserve more firewood for cooking. The health promoters each brought a rural family who will be benefitting from this new program, so it was an excellent opportunity to gain support and excitement for this upcoming opportunity.

To finish the program, I explained the importance of the cultural interchange and community integration. In order for projects to be successful, the involvement of the community is indispensable. I’ve spent a year and a half cultivating meaningful relationships within Poroto, and this event was an excellent sign of the fruits we’ve bared through our mutual collaboration. The overwhelming support and positive feedback from my community on such short notice indicated their commitment to me, Peace Corps, and the work we’ve done together.

I was also able to introduce my incredible host family, who has been a solid and constant source of encouragement, laughter, and comfort during my time here. I truly feel like I am not only Peruana, but Porotina at heart, and a member of the community and my host family. Joshy and Pascuala couldn’t wipe the smiles off their faces during the entire presentation, so when I invited them to the meet the ambassador personally they were quite excited. The whole family came to the front of the room and spoke genuinely about our shared experiences and my presence in their life, and gave the ambassador hand-picked Porotina Pineapple, freshly selected from the chakra. The ambassador closed the program, thanking us for our participation and explaining that Peace Corps truly reflects the best of America; the desire to explore, to serve, to grow and make an impact on the world.

Peace Corps is something that can be explained over and over again, but without seeing it first hand, it can be difficult to truly understand. I have become extremely proud of Poroto and the people who live here, so the opportunity to show off my community, my counterparts, and my work to the US ambassador was quite a memorable experience. It seemed as though the ambassador also appreciated the opportunity to see Peace Corps first hand; in many ways, we’re doing the same kind of work. Obviously, on a much different level, but after a year and a half of life in Poroto I will be the first to advocate for small-scale diplomacy. The contributions of Peace Corps volunteers throughout the world represent an intercultural exchange and collaboration of resources and knowledge that couldn’t be replicated in any other form. In a way, we’re all ambassadors: the daily interactions, community projects and educational opportunities shared, and intertwined lives of volunteers and their community create lasting bonds of friendship and mutual understanding that promote a positive image of the US in a personal and meaningful way.

The Wards do Peru

In April of 2010 I received my official acceptance to the Peace Corps and found out I would be living in Peru. When I called my family to share the good news I still remember my mom’s response, “Oh Kelsi! My passport is just dancing!” indicating her excitement for my adventure but also her intention to visit as soon as possible. Over a year and a half had passed, and my mom’s passport was finally put to good use. After exchanging hugs and excited screams in the Lima airport (and realizing my family wasn’t really just a mirage) the 5 of us piled into a taxi, ready to start our Peruvian adventure with excited smiles hidden behind the piles of luggage on our laps.

Enjoying Iglesia San Francisco

Satisfied after a delicious lunch at Punto Azul

Our first day was filled with exploring all that Lima has to offer, covering a huge portion of the city in only one day. We began in downtown Lima, wondering through parks and plazas, enjoying Christmas decorations, and tasting Peruvian desserts. The heat and sunshine was surely a welcome change from December in Pennsylvania, and we took full advantage of the city. We visited the Plaza de Armas and toured Iglesia San Francisco, complete with intricate wood work, beautiful cloisters, a Peruvian rendition of the Last Supper, and haunting underground catacombs. We enjoyed lunch at my favorite Lima restaurant, Punto Azul, and tried ceviche, pescado sudado, aji de langostinos, and other Peruvian seafood dishes accompanied by frozen passion fruit juice.

From there we wondered around Parque Kennedy in Miraflores and along the coastline of Larco Mar. We enjoyed the sprawling parks, the mosaic creation of Parque del Amor, and paragliders swooping over the ocean into the picturesque sunset.

Relaxing in Parque del Amor

We arrived in Trujillo the following day after my family’s first experience on an overnight bus and immediately boarded the infamous “combi” I’ve been preparing them for. The trip was quite smooth as we traveled down the sugarcane lined roads and arrived safely in Poroto. As we unloaded our suitcases and made our way to my house, the community began to realize that my family had arrived at long last. We headed to my house, met warmly by my host family as if they were life-long friends. Seeing my mom and my host mom, Pascuala, interact was one of the most precious images of the trip. Within seconds of meeting they were both teary eyed, Pascuala somehow communicating that she had stolen my heart and my affection for the last year and I was now a part of two families and she was thrilled to have a chance to meet my other mother.

Before long we were all chatting over freshly peeled Porotina pineapple, forgetting any language or cultural barrier that may have existed. As we were talking I heard an announcement over the loudspeaker of the school blaring in the distance, announcing my summer class schedule and that the family of Senorita Kelsi was visiting and would be joining them in a few brief minutes for the school year’s closing ceremony. We rushed over to the school, greeted by swarms of my school kids excited to meet my familia altaza. After meeting many of the teachers and youth I work with, we continued to the Health Post Christmas party where we were treated as the guests of honor. Rounds of heartfelt Palabras were given expressing thanks for the presence of my family and my participation in the Poroto community before sharing in a celebratory meal. We then proceeded to the annual gift exchange, where the health post doctor’s genuine words about my enthusiasm and impact on the community almost made me tear up. After finishing up our paneton, we headed to the dance floor and even my dad was up there dancing with very little encouragement.

The family overlooking my community, Poroto

As the days in Poroto continued we were able to share countless laughs and memories between our families. I served as the 24/7 translator, but both families quickly learned basic phrases and the power of gestures, sharing stories and communicating without problems. We headed to the chakra and spent the day trying new fruit, admiring the pineapple fields, and playing with the animals. Joshy and my mom were in fits of giggles as they learned “head, shoulders, knees, and toes” in both languages, complete with the hand motions. As we left the chakra, my host mom gathered up our Christmas turkey who had been fattening up on the farm for the last several months and slung him over her shoulder to bring back for our Christmas Eve meal.

The whole group, looking over Poroto from the chakra

Christmas Eve is the main event of the holiday season here in Peru. We spent the day cooking mountains of Peruvian and American food- tamales, Christmas cookies, mazamorra, turkey, homemade pizza, and more. Three more Peace Corps friends joined the fiesta, and the celebration grew. Our faithful turkey served as the Christmas sacrifice, and after he had been thoroughly plucked and prepared, our entire crew walked through the streets of Poroto carrying our turkey to the large adobe oven in town, as if in a funeral procession.

We spent the night relaxing, eating, talking, and laughing until midnight when we officially marked Christmas with huge hugs for everyone and heartfelt speeches by my host dad and real dad. As Spanish and English banter and laughter echoed through the room, I realized how blessed I was to have so many people I care about in one place.

Hiking the chakra on Christmas day

Here I was, thousands of miles from home, on a hot Christmas Eve night, surrounded by my real family and a Peruvian family who have taken me in as one of my own. When I moved to Peru I had high expectations for my experience, but I never imagined feeling so at home and so myself in such a new place. Christmas day was spent hiking the chacras and surrounding dusty mountains of Poroto, exploring Pre-Incan remains and enjoying a lazy Christmas afternoon with family.

Passing the Caballito de Totora boats in Huanchaco Beach

After several days in the campo, we scrubbed off the Porotina dust and enjoyed some time at the beach outside of Trujillo. We basked in the sunshine, relaxed and played games, and ate some good food. Later, we decided we would try our hand at sandboarding, which is essentially snowboarding but on wooden boards down steep sand dunes. We traveled to Santo Domingo and passed by an oasis lake as we hiked up to the top of the sand dunes. The clear sky and sun highlighted the distant fields and desert dunes beyond the steep sand cliffs in front of us. We strapped on our boards and took our turns wiping out face first into the sand before getting the hang of it. Mom was loving it and was definitely the most graceful sandboarder. We enjoyed the rest of our time in Trujillo and Huanchaco, taking in the impressive Plaza de Armas, walking around the busy city streets, and wondering around the botanical gardens.

After our brief beach and city respite we boarded a night bus and began our real adventure, climbing through the winding mountain passes to arrive in Chachapoyas, a beautiful cloud forest region located in the Amazonas department of Northern Peru. Shortly after arriving we embarked on our first outing to Gocta, a recently discovered waterfall measuring more than 700 meters in height, which makes it the 3^rd tallest in the world. The drive to Gocta was incredible; we wound through tight mountain passes, passing under naturally formed rock tunnels as the blue sky highlighted the steep surrounding cliffs. We began our hike to the base of the waterfall and an intense downpour ensued, promptly soaking us and bringing a heavy veil of clouds over the mountains and valleys in the distance.

Embracing the rain and enjoying the hike

We continued through the jungle paths under a canopy of brilliant green vegetation. As we advanced, a roaring sound of rushing water in the distance indicated the approaching waterfall. After turning the corner, a powerful cascade of water came into sight. Initially, the crest of the waterfall blended into the mass of clouds, but soon the sun emerged, revealing its magnitude. As we approached, the temperature dropped dramatically and the powerful mist showered us in its spray. Only the top section was visible from this vantage point, which accounts for only 200 of the 700 meters of Gocta’s height.

Here I am at the base of the top section of Gocta, 500+ meters are still invisible

We hiked down and were able to appreciate the full enormity of the waterfall cascading into the faint light of a rainbow at its base. Gocta is also surrounded by over 20 other waterfalls of impressive size, which had materialized in the distant green mountain landscape after the morning fog cleared. After descending from the waterfalls, the path continued to provide an impressive panorama of rolling green valleys and lush greenery.

Gocta Waterfall- 3^rd tallest in the world!

Chachapoyas is a newly discovered region, inhabiting an incredible wealth of culture, history, and aesthetic beauty. Although locals have known of the local treasures for thousands of years, Gocta was formally discovered only 6 years ago and many of the ruins and archaeological sites have not yet been officially recognized or preserved, which provided us with an incredible insider’s view to the region.

Rocking our mud boots and enormous flashlights- ready for the caverns

The following day we began our hiking trek, starting at caverns situated beneath rolling pastures and quaint countryside. We entered the caves, donning high mud boots and enormous flashlights, which would prove to be quite useful. Luis, our loyal tour guide, led us through the dark winding caverns, highlighting stalactites and stalagmites that were thousands of years old, pools of cool water, and skeletons whose hollow eyes told silent haunting stories of the human sacrifices of the past. Each time we thought we reached the end of the cavernous corridors, we continued on, trudging over an hour into the deep crevices of the cave.

Stalagmites formed over thousands of years

We emerged out of the shadows and back into the light of day and continued to valleys shaded by green patchwork quilts of fields. We hiked down to steep rock cliffs to the location of the Karajia sarcophagi, which date back over a thousand years. These six sarcophagi are larger than life, measuring more than 2 meters high, and remain intact as they peer down ominously with their painted eyes and jutting chins. Other sarcophagi and impressive ruins have been extracted from the area, but are currently on display, uncovered, in a small local hut that serves as a “museum.”

Beautiful countryside views on our hike to Karijia

The sarcogphagi of Karajia

Our adventure continued through winding mountain roads and led us to Valle Belen, or Valley of Bethlehem, an incredible river valley outside of Chachapoyas. From above we could see the serpentine river snake through the lush green valley nestled between tree covered mountains. The sharp S-curves of the river were so exact they seemed unreal. We continued down to the valley, and found a single house that would serve as our accommodations for the night, completely isolated from any other signs of life.

A view of Valle de Belen from above

Appropriately named, Valley of Bethlehem- one of the most impressive sites I’ve seen

The following morning we awoke to begin our hike, admiring the open green fields with gallivanting horses and cattle grazing along the banks of the river. We hiked for several hours through lush green cloud forest, shielding ourselves from the rain and mist with our enormous blue ponchos. At one point, Abby, James, and I decided we would pick up the pace a bit, and before long found ourselves far ahead of Mom, Dad, and our tour guide, Luis. An enormous bull finally served as a road block, causing us to stop and wait. After 45 minutes or more, we begin to construct elaborate stories about deaths by machete or kidnappings, taking the rest of the group for dead. Finally they emerge from the fog, explaining that in our rush we’d miss the whole point of the seven hour hike- the Pre-Incan ruins hidden in the surrounding ferns and jungle vegetation. The Amazonas region has an incredible amount of completely unexcavated Pre-Incan ruins, dating back to 500-500AD. We left the “Raider of the Lost Arc” exploration to Mom and Dad, and continued to our destination. After several hours of steep downhill climbing, we arrived in a tiny town of 15 families that would be our New Year’s Eve accommodations.

Beginning the day’s hike in Valle de Belen

Isolated paths winding through ancient Pre-Inca ruins

Now, when I decided to take my entire family on a rustic trek through the Chachapoyas cloud forest, I may not have completely considered the degree to which I’ve adjusted to the less than glamorous living situations. Here we are; the five of us, on New Year’s Eve; wet, cold, and tired; sitting on a plank of wood watching neighborhood kids play marbles in mud puddles, unable to enter our rooms. A couple hours later we can enter our rooms, but it isn’t much of an improvement; no window coverings, huge gaps in the doors to the outside street. We decide to embrace the situation, playing cards, charades, and even entertaining the entire community with an impromptu dance party on the wooden balcony, set to the tunes of the huayno and cumbia music blasting in the pueblito. We ate New Year’s Eve dinner after watching the guinea pigs skitter around the kitchen where our food was prepared, and went to bed at 8:30pm. Feliz Ano Nuevo!

The following morning we enjoyed some freshly brewed coffee from the coffee beans produced in that very town which would serve as necessary fuel for the day’s adventures. We climbed on our mules with very little instruction and set off into the surrounding woods. Wasting no time, we began scaling steep, narrow, muddy paths. I’ve never been on a horse before, so climbing up 80 degree angles of slippery mud and rock about gave me a heart attack. I gripped my horse for dear life and gave a panicked look to our tiny Peruvian guide, who gave me a crooked smile with green coca-leaf stained spit dripping down his face. Great.

Climbing the narrow, muddy mountain trails on our not so faithful mules

We continued for six hours on the mules, which led us through isolated passageways and high cloud forest mountains that seemed oddly mystical. The lush green vegetation, shiny coffee plants, meandering animals, and steep cliffs were truly beautiful, and it was amazing to explore such an isolated area.

Exploring the mystical cloud forest of Chachapoyas on horseback

After a few hours I had about enough of this horse riding business. At several points the horses slipped on the muddy rocks, so after watching Abby’s horse fall and her cling for her life, I decided I trusted my own two feet to finish off the hike. We finally arrived at our stopping point, but after an hour Dad was still nowhere in sight. The rest of our family and all the guides had arrived, which caused a bit of concern. After two hours he finally emerges, with some pretty epic stories of the uncooperative mule, which had been bucking, biting, and kicking for the last stretch of the climb. Soaking wet and cold with several hours of walking ahead of us and dusk fast approaching, I silently cursed myself for not planning a cushy vacation put rather embracing the true Peruvian experience.

Despite a long day, the views were incredible

We began walking down the curvy mountain road towards the far away town, hoping for any means of transportation. Finally, we hear a motorized vehicle accelerate in the distance and our hopes rise. A motorcycle pulling a small red wagon approaches and with absolutely no hesitation I flag down the driver and hop on, joining the Peruvian man, a little boy, and sacks of onions and potatoes already occupying the wagon. My family seemed a little wearier at the idea, but with minimal coercion the 5 of us and Luis climbed aboard. Despite the added weight, the motorcycle managed to pick up impressive speed down the muddy, steep, winding road to the town. We rode the wagon for several miles, hugging tight turns with steep cliffs beckoning below. At one point, Mom turns to me with a smile on her face but a look of panic in her eyes, and I tell her that other friends had been too careful when planning their parents’ trips and felt they hadn’t seen the true Peru. I explained that I wanted to give them a taste of what Peru was really like… her response, “Well, Kels… I’m full.” When we finally arrived to our destination we were in good spirits despite the day’s ridiculous adventure.

Ready to hop in our luxury transportation

The following day we departed for Kuelap, the iconic ruins of the Chachapoyas regions. These ruins are comparable to Machu Picchu in their size and structure, but date back to Pre-Incan times between 500-600AD. The rain had cleared, providing incredible views of the surrounding countryside in the distance. The rock wall fortresses of the ruins were enormous and the compound was expansive, highlighting incredible architecture methods utilized before modern technology and machinery. The remains of houses, citadels, and community buildings provided a glimpse into the lives of those living over 1500 years ago. The intricate stone work and designs formed immense walls that contrasted beautifully with the surrounding green valleys.

Entering the Kuelap compound

The surrounding landscapes were incredible

The fortress constructed to protect the village

Intricate designs constructed of stone over 1500 years ago

Round house structures inside the Kuelap compound

After a hurried trip back and a quick shower to wash off the accumulated grime of the last 4 days, we boarded an overnight bus back to Trujillo. After roughing it in Chachapoyas, we decided to take a several hour “American” vacation to the mall, indulging in Starbucks, Pizza Hut, and McDonald’s soft serve- a nice treat after a steady diet of rice and potatoes over the last several days. I think my family can now sympathize with me when I comment on the monotony of the food options here when living in a rural Peruvian town.

Taking a little detour to America

Our adventure continued to Huaraz, Ancash, a beautiful region in the Andes mountains. We awoke on the bus to glistening white snow peaks and soon entered Huaraz, a large mountain city with an interesting juxtaposition of tradition and modernity. Andean women dressed in their large pollera skirts, braids, and hats can be found walking along European backpackers and city-dwelling Peruvians. We enjoyed the city and relaxed by the fireplace in our hostel, admiring the snowcapped mountains and red-roofed houses in the distance. During our time we were able to explore some of the rural areas, heading to Beth’s tiny Peace Corps site for a picnic and a hike with John William’s excellent tour guide services.

Exploring the city of Huaraz

Many traditional women come in from the rural mountain towns to sell produce

Hiking to Chavin

Our Peace Corps tour guides and Gulliver, Beth’s precious new puppy

Our final adventure was an amazing biking and hiking excursion to Laguna Llangunucho, a glacial lake outside of Huaraz. Dad, Abby, and James rented mountain bikes and rode from the top of a winding road that has more switchbacks than any other road in South America and was featured on the TV program “World’s Deadliest Roads”. Mom and I hiked a significant portion of the same road. At the highest peak of our climb we could see two crystal blue lakes in the distance, surrounded by cliffs and glaciers hiding behind clouds.

The crazy road where he hiked and biked to the lakes

A view of Laguna Llangunucho glacial lake from above

We began our 13 kilometer descent to the lakes on the winding dirt road. After a bit, we were feeling adventurous and decided to cut down the cliffs instead of follow the serpentine road. Before long we were scaling steep mountain passes without an escape route. There were several points where it was more effective to slide down on our butts, gripping whatever grass or plants for traction. After being led astray by an imposing bull in our path, we finally managed to find our way and arrived at the glacier lakes. Despite the backdrop of cliffs and snow, the lakes were the color of the Caribbean, the crystal clear water creating a beach scene in the middle of the Andes Mountains.

The bull blocking our way

Scaling down the mountainside

Snowcapped mountains in the distance

Descending to the glacial lakes

The Caribbean comes to the Andes Mountains

During the last year and a half I have fallen in love with Peru; not only its amazing sites and hospitable people, but the bizarre intricacies I’ve come to embrace. Only so much can be expressed through shared stories or written words, so the opportunity to share this experience with my family was an incredible blessing. My life here means so much to me, and it truly has become a second home. Now when I talk to my family they can hear Joshy’s hearty laughter, understand my frustration with obstacles that prevent my community from advancing, taste the sweet Porotina pineapple, sympathize over a cold shower or an overdose of rice and potatoes, imagine the crazy swerves of a combi, hear the sing-song voices of children yelling “Senorita Kelsi” in the streets, and better appreciate the incredible impact this country has had on me.