The Wards do Peru

In April of 2010 I received my official acceptance to the Peace Corps and found out I would be living in Peru. When I called my family to share the good news I still remember my mom’s response, “Oh Kelsi! My passport is just dancing!” indicating her excitement for my adventure but also her intention to visit as soon as possible. Over a year and a half had passed, and my mom’s passport was finally put to good use. After exchanging hugs and excited screams in the Lima airport (and realizing my family wasn’t really just a mirage) the 5 of us piled into a taxi, ready to start our Peruvian adventure with excited smiles hidden behind the piles of luggage on our laps.

Enjoying Iglesia San Francisco

Satisfied after a delicious lunch at Punto Azul

Our first day was filled with exploring all that Lima has to offer, covering a huge portion of the city in only one day. We began in downtown Lima, wondering through parks and plazas, enjoying Christmas decorations, and tasting Peruvian desserts. The heat and sunshine was surely a welcome change from December in Pennsylvania, and we took full advantage of the city. We visited the Plaza de Armas and toured Iglesia San Francisco, complete with intricate wood work, beautiful cloisters, a Peruvian rendition of the Last Supper, and haunting underground catacombs. We enjoyed lunch at my favorite Lima restaurant, Punto Azul, and tried ceviche, pescado sudado, aji de langostinos, and other Peruvian seafood dishes accompanied by frozen passion fruit juice.

From there we wondered around Parque Kennedy in Miraflores and along the coastline of Larco Mar. We enjoyed the sprawling parks, the mosaic creation of Parque del Amor, and paragliders swooping over the ocean into the picturesque sunset.

Relaxing in Parque del Amor

We arrived in Trujillo the following day after my family’s first experience on an overnight bus and immediately boarded the infamous “combi” I’ve been preparing them for. The trip was quite smooth as we traveled down the sugarcane lined roads and arrived safely in Poroto. As we unloaded our suitcases and made our way to my house, the community began to realize that my family had arrived at long last. We headed to my house, met warmly by my host family as if they were life-long friends. Seeing my mom and my host mom, Pascuala, interact was one of the most precious images of the trip. Within seconds of meeting they were both teary eyed, Pascuala somehow communicating that she had stolen my heart and my affection for the last year and I was now a part of two families and she was thrilled to have a chance to meet my other mother.

Before long we were all chatting over freshly peeled Porotina pineapple, forgetting any language or cultural barrier that may have existed. As we were talking I heard an announcement over the loudspeaker of the school blaring in the distance, announcing my summer class schedule and that the family of Senorita Kelsi was visiting and would be joining them in a few brief minutes for the school year’s closing ceremony. We rushed over to the school, greeted by swarms of my school kids excited to meet my familia altaza. After meeting many of the teachers and youth I work with, we continued to the Health Post Christmas party where we were treated as the guests of honor. Rounds of heartfelt Palabras were given expressing thanks for the presence of my family and my participation in the Poroto community before sharing in a celebratory meal. We then proceeded to the annual gift exchange, where the health post doctor’s genuine words about my enthusiasm and impact on the community almost made me tear up. After finishing up our paneton, we headed to the dance floor and even my dad was up there dancing with very little encouragement.

The family overlooking my community, Poroto

As the days in Poroto continued we were able to share countless laughs and memories between our families. I served as the 24/7 translator, but both families quickly learned basic phrases and the power of gestures, sharing stories and communicating without problems. We headed to the chakra and spent the day trying new fruit, admiring the pineapple fields, and playing with the animals. Joshy and my mom were in fits of giggles as they learned “head, shoulders, knees, and toes” in both languages, complete with the hand motions. As we left the chakra, my host mom gathered up our Christmas turkey who had been fattening up on the farm for the last several months and slung him over her shoulder to bring back for our Christmas Eve meal.

The whole group, looking over Poroto from the chakra

Christmas Eve is the main event of the holiday season here in Peru. We spent the day cooking mountains of Peruvian and American food- tamales, Christmas cookies, mazamorra, turkey, homemade pizza, and more. Three more Peace Corps friends joined the fiesta, and the celebration grew. Our faithful turkey served as the Christmas sacrifice, and after he had been thoroughly plucked and prepared, our entire crew walked through the streets of Poroto carrying our turkey to the large adobe oven in town, as if in a funeral procession.

We spent the night relaxing, eating, talking, and laughing until midnight when we officially marked Christmas with huge hugs for everyone and heartfelt speeches by my host dad and real dad. As Spanish and English banter and laughter echoed through the room, I realized how blessed I was to have so many people I care about in one place.

Hiking the chakra on Christmas day

Here I was, thousands of miles from home, on a hot Christmas Eve night, surrounded by my real family and a Peruvian family who have taken me in as one of my own. When I moved to Peru I had high expectations for my experience, but I never imagined feeling so at home and so myself in such a new place. Christmas day was spent hiking the chacras and surrounding dusty mountains of Poroto, exploring Pre-Incan remains and enjoying a lazy Christmas afternoon with family.

Passing the Caballito de Totora boats in Huanchaco Beach

After several days in the campo, we scrubbed off the Porotina dust and enjoyed some time at the beach outside of Trujillo. We basked in the sunshine, relaxed and played games, and ate some good food. Later, we decided we would try our hand at sandboarding, which is essentially snowboarding but on wooden boards down steep sand dunes. We traveled to Santo Domingo and passed by an oasis lake as we hiked up to the top of the sand dunes. The clear sky and sun highlighted the distant fields and desert dunes beyond the steep sand cliffs in front of us. We strapped on our boards and took our turns wiping out face first into the sand before getting the hang of it. Mom was loving it and was definitely the most graceful sandboarder. We enjoyed the rest of our time in Trujillo and Huanchaco, taking in the impressive Plaza de Armas, walking around the busy city streets, and wondering around the botanical gardens.

After our brief beach and city respite we boarded a night bus and began our real adventure, climbing through the winding mountain passes to arrive in Chachapoyas, a beautiful cloud forest region located in the Amazonas department of Northern Peru. Shortly after arriving we embarked on our first outing to Gocta, a recently discovered waterfall measuring more than 700 meters in height, which makes it the 3^rd tallest in the world. The drive to Gocta was incredible; we wound through tight mountain passes, passing under naturally formed rock tunnels as the blue sky highlighted the steep surrounding cliffs. We began our hike to the base of the waterfall and an intense downpour ensued, promptly soaking us and bringing a heavy veil of clouds over the mountains and valleys in the distance.

Embracing the rain and enjoying the hike

We continued through the jungle paths under a canopy of brilliant green vegetation. As we advanced, a roaring sound of rushing water in the distance indicated the approaching waterfall. After turning the corner, a powerful cascade of water came into sight. Initially, the crest of the waterfall blended into the mass of clouds, but soon the sun emerged, revealing its magnitude. As we approached, the temperature dropped dramatically and the powerful mist showered us in its spray. Only the top section was visible from this vantage point, which accounts for only 200 of the 700 meters of Gocta’s height.

Here I am at the base of the top section of Gocta, 500+ meters are still invisible

We hiked down and were able to appreciate the full enormity of the waterfall cascading into the faint light of a rainbow at its base. Gocta is also surrounded by over 20 other waterfalls of impressive size, which had materialized in the distant green mountain landscape after the morning fog cleared. After descending from the waterfalls, the path continued to provide an impressive panorama of rolling green valleys and lush greenery.

Gocta Waterfall- 3^rd tallest in the world!

Chachapoyas is a newly discovered region, inhabiting an incredible wealth of culture, history, and aesthetic beauty. Although locals have known of the local treasures for thousands of years, Gocta was formally discovered only 6 years ago and many of the ruins and archaeological sites have not yet been officially recognized or preserved, which provided us with an incredible insider’s view to the region.

Rocking our mud boots and enormous flashlights- ready for the caverns

The following day we began our hiking trek, starting at caverns situated beneath rolling pastures and quaint countryside. We entered the caves, donning high mud boots and enormous flashlights, which would prove to be quite useful. Luis, our loyal tour guide, led us through the dark winding caverns, highlighting stalactites and stalagmites that were thousands of years old, pools of cool water, and skeletons whose hollow eyes told silent haunting stories of the human sacrifices of the past. Each time we thought we reached the end of the cavernous corridors, we continued on, trudging over an hour into the deep crevices of the cave.

Stalagmites formed over thousands of years

We emerged out of the shadows and back into the light of day and continued to valleys shaded by green patchwork quilts of fields. We hiked down to steep rock cliffs to the location of the Karajia sarcophagi, which date back over a thousand years. These six sarcophagi are larger than life, measuring more than 2 meters high, and remain intact as they peer down ominously with their painted eyes and jutting chins. Other sarcophagi and impressive ruins have been extracted from the area, but are currently on display, uncovered, in a small local hut that serves as a “museum.”

Beautiful countryside views on our hike to Karijia

The sarcogphagi of Karajia

Our adventure continued through winding mountain roads and led us to Valle Belen, or Valley of Bethlehem, an incredible river valley outside of Chachapoyas. From above we could see the serpentine river snake through the lush green valley nestled between tree covered mountains. The sharp S-curves of the river were so exact they seemed unreal. We continued down to the valley, and found a single house that would serve as our accommodations for the night, completely isolated from any other signs of life.

A view of Valle de Belen from above

Appropriately named, Valley of Bethlehem- one of the most impressive sites I’ve seen

The following morning we awoke to begin our hike, admiring the open green fields with gallivanting horses and cattle grazing along the banks of the river. We hiked for several hours through lush green cloud forest, shielding ourselves from the rain and mist with our enormous blue ponchos. At one point, Abby, James, and I decided we would pick up the pace a bit, and before long found ourselves far ahead of Mom, Dad, and our tour guide, Luis. An enormous bull finally served as a road block, causing us to stop and wait. After 45 minutes or more, we begin to construct elaborate stories about deaths by machete or kidnappings, taking the rest of the group for dead. Finally they emerge from the fog, explaining that in our rush we’d miss the whole point of the seven hour hike- the Pre-Incan ruins hidden in the surrounding ferns and jungle vegetation. The Amazonas region has an incredible amount of completely unexcavated Pre-Incan ruins, dating back to 500-500AD. We left the “Raider of the Lost Arc” exploration to Mom and Dad, and continued to our destination. After several hours of steep downhill climbing, we arrived in a tiny town of 15 families that would be our New Year’s Eve accommodations.

Beginning the day’s hike in Valle de Belen

Isolated paths winding through ancient Pre-Inca ruins

Now, when I decided to take my entire family on a rustic trek through the Chachapoyas cloud forest, I may not have completely considered the degree to which I’ve adjusted to the less than glamorous living situations. Here we are; the five of us, on New Year’s Eve; wet, cold, and tired; sitting on a plank of wood watching neighborhood kids play marbles in mud puddles, unable to enter our rooms. A couple hours later we can enter our rooms, but it isn’t much of an improvement; no window coverings, huge gaps in the doors to the outside street. We decide to embrace the situation, playing cards, charades, and even entertaining the entire community with an impromptu dance party on the wooden balcony, set to the tunes of the huayno and cumbia music blasting in the pueblito. We ate New Year’s Eve dinner after watching the guinea pigs skitter around the kitchen where our food was prepared, and went to bed at 8:30pm. Feliz Ano Nuevo!

The following morning we enjoyed some freshly brewed coffee from the coffee beans produced in that very town which would serve as necessary fuel for the day’s adventures. We climbed on our mules with very little instruction and set off into the surrounding woods. Wasting no time, we began scaling steep, narrow, muddy paths. I’ve never been on a horse before, so climbing up 80 degree angles of slippery mud and rock about gave me a heart attack. I gripped my horse for dear life and gave a panicked look to our tiny Peruvian guide, who gave me a crooked smile with green coca-leaf stained spit dripping down his face. Great.

Climbing the narrow, muddy mountain trails on our not so faithful mules

We continued for six hours on the mules, which led us through isolated passageways and high cloud forest mountains that seemed oddly mystical. The lush green vegetation, shiny coffee plants, meandering animals, and steep cliffs were truly beautiful, and it was amazing to explore such an isolated area.

Exploring the mystical cloud forest of Chachapoyas on horseback

After a few hours I had about enough of this horse riding business. At several points the horses slipped on the muddy rocks, so after watching Abby’s horse fall and her cling for her life, I decided I trusted my own two feet to finish off the hike. We finally arrived at our stopping point, but after an hour Dad was still nowhere in sight. The rest of our family and all the guides had arrived, which caused a bit of concern. After two hours he finally emerges, with some pretty epic stories of the uncooperative mule, which had been bucking, biting, and kicking for the last stretch of the climb. Soaking wet and cold with several hours of walking ahead of us and dusk fast approaching, I silently cursed myself for not planning a cushy vacation put rather embracing the true Peruvian experience.

Despite a long day, the views were incredible

We began walking down the curvy mountain road towards the far away town, hoping for any means of transportation. Finally, we hear a motorized vehicle accelerate in the distance and our hopes rise. A motorcycle pulling a small red wagon approaches and with absolutely no hesitation I flag down the driver and hop on, joining the Peruvian man, a little boy, and sacks of onions and potatoes already occupying the wagon. My family seemed a little wearier at the idea, but with minimal coercion the 5 of us and Luis climbed aboard. Despite the added weight, the motorcycle managed to pick up impressive speed down the muddy, steep, winding road to the town. We rode the wagon for several miles, hugging tight turns with steep cliffs beckoning below. At one point, Mom turns to me with a smile on her face but a look of panic in her eyes, and I tell her that other friends had been too careful when planning their parents’ trips and felt they hadn’t seen the true Peru. I explained that I wanted to give them a taste of what Peru was really like… her response, “Well, Kels… I’m full.” When we finally arrived to our destination we were in good spirits despite the day’s ridiculous adventure.

Ready to hop in our luxury transportation

The following day we departed for Kuelap, the iconic ruins of the Chachapoyas regions. These ruins are comparable to Machu Picchu in their size and structure, but date back to Pre-Incan times between 500-600AD. The rain had cleared, providing incredible views of the surrounding countryside in the distance. The rock wall fortresses of the ruins were enormous and the compound was expansive, highlighting incredible architecture methods utilized before modern technology and machinery. The remains of houses, citadels, and community buildings provided a glimpse into the lives of those living over 1500 years ago. The intricate stone work and designs formed immense walls that contrasted beautifully with the surrounding green valleys.

Entering the Kuelap compound

The surrounding landscapes were incredible

The fortress constructed to protect the village

Intricate designs constructed of stone over 1500 years ago

Round house structures inside the Kuelap compound

After a hurried trip back and a quick shower to wash off the accumulated grime of the last 4 days, we boarded an overnight bus back to Trujillo. After roughing it in Chachapoyas, we decided to take a several hour “American” vacation to the mall, indulging in Starbucks, Pizza Hut, and McDonald’s soft serve- a nice treat after a steady diet of rice and potatoes over the last several days. I think my family can now sympathize with me when I comment on the monotony of the food options here when living in a rural Peruvian town.

Taking a little detour to America

Our adventure continued to Huaraz, Ancash, a beautiful region in the Andes mountains. We awoke on the bus to glistening white snow peaks and soon entered Huaraz, a large mountain city with an interesting juxtaposition of tradition and modernity. Andean women dressed in their large pollera skirts, braids, and hats can be found walking along European backpackers and city-dwelling Peruvians. We enjoyed the city and relaxed by the fireplace in our hostel, admiring the snowcapped mountains and red-roofed houses in the distance. During our time we were able to explore some of the rural areas, heading to Beth’s tiny Peace Corps site for a picnic and a hike with John William’s excellent tour guide services.

Exploring the city of Huaraz

Many traditional women come in from the rural mountain towns to sell produce

Hiking to Chavin

Our Peace Corps tour guides and Gulliver, Beth’s precious new puppy

Our final adventure was an amazing biking and hiking excursion to Laguna Llangunucho, a glacial lake outside of Huaraz. Dad, Abby, and James rented mountain bikes and rode from the top of a winding road that has more switchbacks than any other road in South America and was featured on the TV program “World’s Deadliest Roads”. Mom and I hiked a significant portion of the same road. At the highest peak of our climb we could see two crystal blue lakes in the distance, surrounded by cliffs and glaciers hiding behind clouds.

The crazy road where he hiked and biked to the lakes

A view of Laguna Llangunucho glacial lake from above

We began our 13 kilometer descent to the lakes on the winding dirt road. After a bit, we were feeling adventurous and decided to cut down the cliffs instead of follow the serpentine road. Before long we were scaling steep mountain passes without an escape route. There were several points where it was more effective to slide down on our butts, gripping whatever grass or plants for traction. After being led astray by an imposing bull in our path, we finally managed to find our way and arrived at the glacier lakes. Despite the backdrop of cliffs and snow, the lakes were the color of the Caribbean, the crystal clear water creating a beach scene in the middle of the Andes Mountains.

The bull blocking our way

Scaling down the mountainside

Snowcapped mountains in the distance

Descending to the glacial lakes

The Caribbean comes to the Andes Mountains

During the last year and a half I have fallen in love with Peru; not only its amazing sites and hospitable people, but the bizarre intricacies I’ve come to embrace. Only so much can be expressed through shared stories or written words, so the opportunity to share this experience with my family was an incredible blessing. My life here means so much to me, and it truly has become a second home. Now when I talk to my family they can hear Joshy’s hearty laughter, understand my frustration with obstacles that prevent my community from advancing, taste the sweet Porotina pineapple, sympathize over a cold shower or an overdose of rice and potatoes, imagine the crazy swerves of a combi, hear the sing-song voices of children yelling “Senorita Kelsi” in the streets, and better appreciate the incredible impact this country has had on me.